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Kolkata, the former British colonial foothold on the marshy Ganges and Brahmaputra deltas, is a vast city of 14 million. This proud, packed and polluted mass, with its crumbling gems of Victorian architecture, is called the capital of India's intellectuals. See it from a Morris Oxford or cut down on pollution and hop on a rickshaw. Experience the chaos and clamour of the New Market area, wander amid fronds in the Botanical Garden or around Victoria Monument, or join the hordes at Dakshineshwar Kali Temple.
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