The atmospheric old city of Fes - and its vast Karouine mosque - date back to the 9th century. New Fes is a spring chicken in comparison, dating back only to the 1500s. Hired cars don't do well in the city's narrow streets, so to explore the culture of this great city, or rather two cities, brave the daredevil taxi drivers or walk from one major sight to another, from the maze-like quarters of the ancient Medina to Fes el-Bali and the four imposing Gates of Fes, with their distinctive Moroccan tilework.