Pädaste Manor reminded me Melancholia, a movie by Lars von Trier. Location is quite similar to the old castle where much of the Melancholia´s action takes place: there is a seaside, greenery of a park, historicness of centuries old building and few humans playing their roles under the vast sky.
Muhu island (named Moon in Swedish and German) is not a easiest place to reach (unless one utilizes manors private helipad) and getting there requires some determination and at least 3 hours from Tallinn (4 hours from Riga) by car and ferry. Island is sparsely populated (wild boars probably match or outnumber Muhu human residents) and once you have arrived to this quite off the beaten track location it is easy to appreciate what a little bubble of comforts and civilization exists in the middle of green wilderness of woods. All one can do now is to spend it´s time as pleasantly as possible, reflect, relax and wonder.
Manor´s room are decorated in slightly different styles depending on the building they are located. I personally liked coziness of my little double room (price paid was 226 euros per night including breakfast and taxes) in the old Carriage House better than more minimalist approach of manor´s main mansion under the roof of which are also located hotel´s restaurant and main check-in. I appreciated lit candles and quiet piano music in the hallways, elegant bouquet of wild flowers on the table of my room, uniqueness of Muhu embroidery on a soft brown blanket that covered the white sofa, luxuriousness of Molton Brown toiletries in the bathroom, my private balcony (red flowers, old wood with nobly flaking paint) and view and the wide park view that opened from there. Bed and TV were located on the second level of the room which is especially suitable for those who like to climb stairs — for me personally there was perhaps a bit of less space directly under the roof than I would have preferred. But I have to admit that I much liked falling to sleep there at night when rain started and monotonous drumming of raindrops on the roof was only thing I did hear.
By the bedside was also a inviting book about history of Courland and after the turn down service (I believe I had actually declined turn down service, but somehow it happened anyhow) two cookies with pieces of chocolate appeared on the bedside table. Bakery is done in-house at Pädaste and hotel´s unique dark bread with hazelnuts and raisins can be tasted at breakfast, which starts at 9 AM (it may be a tad too late for some guest preferences). I actually did enjoy breakfast (especially a la carte lamb sausages which were beautifully decorated with mustard and watercress), but I think there might be even room for some slight improvements. For example cold breakfast items could be served a la carte as well, based on guests preferences. At the moment they are served as a set: two croissants, two slices of bread, two cookies and about ten bit-sized accompaniments from chicken liver pate and pork neck slices to juniper cheese and strawberry jam. Considering small numbers of guests approach could be more personal. Maybe one does not like to have meat on table or desires to have more of it instead of “kilu” (type of fermented sprat)? I also think that while some of Pädaste staff is really very good and seemingly endlessly joyful, some are bit less seasoned. “What?” (“Mis?” in Estonian) is probably not a five star reaction from waitress who did not happen to understand that mumbling guest had requested to have a glass of tomato juice.
In any case Pädaste is great place where just wonder, relax and let time flow by (bikes for exploring local meadows and forests are available for 6 euros per hour). Some might want to spend relaxing afternoon in Pädaste spa instead, although I personally did find spa prices to be a bit of prohibitive (90 minute pedicure session with several pamperings sets one back by 109 euros and price of the more expensive packages is almost three times as much). More economical of us might also want to check mini bar price list before raiding it: Laurent Perrier 37.5 champagne in my rooms fridge was priced at 138 euros. Then again will those high price points probably help in keeping overall environment calmer and relaxing. I do not think that during my stay more than 10 other guests were present which gives everyone ample of personal space.
I would give Pädaste five stars considering location, historic atmosphere, still unleashed potential, beauty of their park (some areas are left wild when others are painstakingly maintained) and amounts love owners have clearly invested in this project over the years. It is a great place to quietly rebuild your strength and
and appreciate beauty, both existing and the one that has been.
