We've become regulars at Nikos on our Easter walking holidays in southern Crete because they're alway open, there's a warm welcome from the son, Jorgos, and the food and their local wine is delicious. A lot of tourists don't drink or ask for the local, wine which is served straight from a large wooden barrel, Amber coloured, strong and tastes a bit like sherry but *it goes with the food*. So persevere. No chemicals. No sore head for your ten mile hike the next day. We've had great veg, salad, fish, lamb, rabbit - ask Jorgos what's fresh & in season and go for it.