I recently visited Sao Miguel for the first time with my wife and my mother. My wife and I are pretty well travelled and we wanted to enjoy the area before it was too overrun with tourists. We flew in and were staying for a week at Pedras do Mar nearby. When we landed we were a little hungry, and by the time we checked in early and get ready, it was noon. We asked for a recommendation at the front desk and were told that this place was very good and close. She was right.
As we pulled in they were just opening for lunch service. It was a Saturday, and we were the first to walk in. It turned out the owner, Al, was the person who greeted us, seated us and tended to us. He was very nice, and did not intrude. Rather, he carefully asked a few questions, answered our questions honestly, and made some recommendations. The first thing he asked what about wine. What did we like. He listened and after some debate, where he explained how Portugal has the best wine, he said he would bring us a nice wine that we would like as to taste, but that was. It too expensive. He explained that he doesn’t like pushing expensive wine, but wanted to give us something we would like. His recommendation was spot on. Once that was sorted we proceeded to order food.
Like I said, we were hungry. Al went over the menu, and my mom and I wanted some octopus. There are two such plates in the menu, but after asking our taste, he recommended the one with garlic, oil, and potatoes. It was some of the best octopus I have had in a long time. The flesh was firm but not tough, with good texture and great flavor. It was simple, as octopus should be, but it was also a substantial dish that all three of us could share and enjoy.
For entrees my mom and I had the trigger fish, clearly freshly caught. It is a great thing that more places are using these types of fish that are sustainable due to the fact that they are not over fished. My wife had the beef fillet. Now I like seafood, or rather I love seafood, but I almost have to say that the fillet stole the show. It was perfectly seasoned, topped with a bacon crumble, and seared beautifully. Simple good ingredients done well are always the best. All three of us shared the meal and wine while we enjoyed the peak through window views between the shelves lined with wine corks.
Al checked on us a few times during the meal, as did the kitchen staff, but the service was very much the typical European “no rush,” you are not pushed to clear room for the next cover, you can stay as long as you like.
Al was a lovely host. He is not necessarily what I call a talker, but he is very charming and cares about your experience. The price was also great from our standpoint. Good value for money.
During our week on the island we hit a few other nice restaurants. We ate at Tasquina Viera, and Big
21 among them. Funny thing is, as we kept sampling octopus along the way, we all kept saying how this was the best one we had eaten.
So our last evening arrives, and as we are considering where we are going to eat, we realize that we just want that octopus and that fillet again before we leave. Mind you, by this time my mom had fallen on a hike (little did we know she had broken her tibia and would need a plate and screws after returning home, and to think she was walking in it thinking it was an ankle sprain) so going out instead of room service is a challenge. We had been all over the island, including even finding the ever illusive fanciful unicorn: the liquor store (go to Sao Miguel and you will know what I mean) and still our last meal was back here with Al.
When we walked in through the door he instantly recognized us and asked what had happened given my mom’s limp. He chatted with us and asked about the trip. Then when it came time to eat, his eyes twinkled as we described that we had measured all the local octopus dishes against his and nine was as good. After much debate, he decided that we should just pick three entrees to put in the middle of the table to share. We had the fillet, the octopus, and at Al’s recommendation the rump steak which was delicious. Again, the attention was spot on, not pushy, but friendly and agreeable. He again gave us a great wine recommendation and explained that for him, it isn’t about the “up sell,” rather he wants people to enjoy their food.
My wife and I enjoy travel because it broadens the horizon, feeds the sole with new experiences, and because quite frankly, it is fun to eat and drink in new experiences. From fine dining to little food stalls we have done it all, and at this point we can tell the nice places that just click and feel right. El Botequim Acoreano is just that place. If you stay in the area of Ribeira, or a Pedras do Mar, I would highly recommend that you stop by. Try the octopus in garlic and olive oil. Try the fillet. Order some wine and relax after a long day. Some of the best in town. And say hello to Al.
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