Most travellers to French Polynesia go to the coastal resorts. Wonderful as they are, if you want a break from the attractions of the sea, a different, but equally spectacular, destination can be found at the Relais de la Maroto, high in the mountains in the centre of the island of Tahiti. It was originally built to house hydro dam construction workers and so you should not expect resort style accommodations. However, the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking, with densely forested high mountain peaks all around, waterfalls, mountain streams and some stunning walks along mountain roads and tracks. The hotel's best rooms are the cabins that are newly built and situated to make the most of the surrounding views. The other rooms are in the original building, and show their age, but they are clean and comfortable enough. Our room in this building had a stunning view and it seemed that all rooms would have similar outlooks. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the restaurant/balcony area was located to make the most of the stunning scenery. We were lucky to have blue skies with wisps of cloud appearing around the peaks. I guess if you were there during cloud and rain, you may not be as enthusiastic for the scenery as I am.
There were only a handful of guests when we were there, probably because it is a bit out of the way. However, more arrived on a day trip for lunch.
Getting there can be a bit uncomfortable - sitting on bench seats in the back of an old 4wd on a bumpy track. If you have back issues, I suggest you ask for a front cab seat. Also check that the driver ties your luggage securely on the roof - I was glad I had a bit of cord in my bag to help with the tie-down. I'm sure the bags would have not survived the trip with just the driver's fraying elastic strap! We noticed some normal 2WD cars in the car park - so it may be possible to drive there yourself, as long as the car rental company allowed it, but you need to be prepared to drive on a pot-holed, bumpy road with a couple of creek crossings.
If you are adventurous, there is a small swimming hole with a slippery rock slide into it, at the end of a half hour walk. Finding it is a bit difficult, but we managed to tag along behind an adventure tour from Papeete that were heading there. The tour leader was happy to show us the way.