This is an oddity amid all the hustle around the Hauptbahnhof. In a back street close to all the sex shops, tourist traps and cheap eats, you encounter this very trad Bavarian anomaly. It's not a sales gimmick. Just, a sort of miniature beer hall, serving excellent food.
It's where I go in Munich for really good Hax'n, the crisped knuckle of pig served with a Dunkelbier gravy and dumplings. Much as I love the Schelling-Salon for its old-school ambience and the delightful, slightly stern ladies who wait the tables there, the Hax'n is better at the Gesellenhaus. And it's better than Munich's more famous and much more expensive places specialising in this very Bavarian dish.
It's not delicate food. It involves a lot of chewing and sucking and crunching, and a big bone to gnaw. But the gravy is wonderful, silkily, darkly unctuous, and the meat is juicily full of piggy flavour. The beer is either the Franzosischer Weissbier, or (better) the very under-rated Spaten, a very old Munich brewer which rather unfairly doesn't get the same kind of publicity as Augustiner or Hof, but whose bright, uncomplicated Helles is a delight to drink. It's a great lunch destination: as long as you don't have too many energetic plans for the afternoon.
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