This truly is a magnificent museum. It's devoted to the artifacts found from the ancient indigenous people from this area of Mexico. I have read that only the anthropology museum in Mexico City is better. Of course, the gigantic Olmec heads are the prize of the museum, including one right in the large entry area, but there is much more to see.
First, how to get there. Assuming you are downtown just find a bus stop on Enriquez (on the Cathedral side of the street) which is the main drag that goes through the center of town or along its extension since the name changes to Camacho a block after passing the Cathedral. Catch a bus that says Tesoreria. You will go through a nice part of town and pass the new theatre and reach the museum after going about four KMs.
The museum is hard to miss since it is a very large modern building with gardens and woods next to it. You do pay about 50 pesos to get in. Somehow, despite being in our 60s, the guard sold us half price student tickets. Hmmm?
The museum is divided into several very large rooms and arranged all in a row so that you have to walk through all of them. As you walk through the museum it is arranged chronologically and the first rooms you are in deal with the Olmecs. The heads are terrific to see and stand next to. Another extra feature in some of the rooms is the vegetation which gives you a feeling of being outside. Although the language used in the museum is obviously Spanish there are laminated descriptive sheets in each room in English too. Some of the rooms have open doors to the outside garden area. After walking the entire length of the museum and seeing themost recent artifacts you will find a bathroom and then you can either walk back through all the rooms again or step outside and walk back on a walkway next to the building or walk through the garden area. Much of the flowering parts of the garden are right next to the walkway.
Once back in the main entry area you will find a nice shop with books, postcards, CDs, and more and a very small cafe as well. There was also a room with modern art whjich we assumed was a temporary collection. The bus stop is right next to where you got off the bus to get there although the one we caught took us back on a slightly different route.
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