HI- Just wanted to give a few tips from my experience (fwiw travelling alone as a woman)
I used uber and careem (the local version) to get around town, careem is cheaper and just as good- if you get an overcharge they will refund you.
I liked Hamra, but wonder why it gets so much attention on this board as there are many other nice areas too (my guess is it is geared for those looking for nightclub life?)
My favorite reasonably priced restaurant to go alone was T. Marbouta in Hamra (basically unmarked and behind starbucks)- the food is really great and it has a very nice and comfy atmosphere.
I stayed at Studio 44 which I recommend for location and clean rooms which have a desk and sofa- around $60us a night or less. It is in Hamra right near the Commodore hotel.
As a first timer I found the airport a bit confusing at night and very crowded (2am!) so I would go with a pickup service. On the way back allow more time for security than you think you will need.
For souvenirs such as spices there is a Goodies in town and also before you board- I really loved this grocery store! Also they have the best fruit.
I don't recommend the malls- there is not much local anything and they seem to like the weirdest things from the US like PF Changs and Payless Shoes! haha weird things to export!
I did 2 Nakhal tours- they were jam packed and a good value, there were 3 unrelated Lebanese people on one with their guests, so it must have a good local reputation too. Very professional. Don't miss the Bekka Valley. I cared less for the Byblos one by far.
I found everyone very respectful and easy to deal with- really a very nice place!
Bottom line- this is a great city where I felt totally safe and treated well. I absolutely loved my time there.