In the downtown area at the end of the Baixa, where all the long, straight avenues terminate next to the Tejo (Tagus) in the Praca do Comercio, sits this 250 year old establishment that boasts being Lisbon’s oldest cafe (actually a restaurant). It has strong...literary connections and the interior is breathtaking, like a Belle Epoque Parisian cafe filmset….. Now, to the food…..my wife, son and I turned up on a very quiet Thursday night and sat outside. The staff were lovely, the owner charming and loquacious. The wine list is quite good, the prices fair but the food acceptable if not remarkable. Of course this was based on just one visit. The cataplana (fish stew) that my wife and I shared was a bit under-seasoned with some fairly chewy fish. Our son’s Bacalhau a bras (salted cod with eggs and potatoes) a bit bland. It needed a bit more garlic and incredibly, salt too. But his chocolate mousse dessert was good. We’ll give it another go sometime soon… Maybe a bit too much style over substance.More
















