How to spend a summer weekend in Southern Maine
“The way life should be.” That is Maine’s official slogan, and according to Joe Lipton, it’s not just marketing speak—especially along the coast of Southern Maine in towns like York, Ogunquit, and Kennebunkport. “We live by that motto,” says Lipton, who is the cofounder and CEO of the York-based Crane Hotel Group. “During Covid, so many people moved here because it truly is the way life should be. When you walk down the street, everyone says ‘hello’ to each other. And being on the coast, you don’t feel trapped. You can breathe.”
Lipton has come a long way since his humble beginnings. When he was 8 years old, his single mom moved him from Brooklyn to York, a family-friendly community with seafaring roots. Lipton didn’t graduate from high school; instead he started DJing and partying. Eventually, he stumbled into construction and the hospitality business, opening wildly successful hotels and restaurants in York, including The Viewpoint (a glamorous spot overlooking Nubble Lighthouse), Stones Throw (a laidback beachfront property), and The Nevada (a converted motel with a tiki bar). “I am trying to create places that are great for travelers and for locals,” says Lipton, who runs the business with his wife, designer Michelle Friar. “This is about personality, connection, and community,” he says.
Just up the coast in the preppy-chic town of Kennebunkport, there’s another family-owned spot: the 140-year-old Nonantum Resort, set on the shores of the Kennebunk River. Owner and innkeeper Jean Ginn Marvin and her daughter Colby Marvin Bracy created a program called Raising People Up. The idea is to hire a diverse group of people who need a second chance—or just a first one. People like Marston Poore, a non-verbal autistic 21-year-old, who does kitchen work and created art for the hotel’s greeting cards. “Working here has been life-changing for Marston,” says Jen Poore, Marston’s mother. “I’m a former teacher. I’ve always believed in inclusion, and the Nonantum embodies that idea in so many good ways.”
That welcoming vibe translates to guests, who immediately feel like part of a family when they stay at the Nonantum—which I noticed on my own recent visit. “This is not just a workplace: It’s a home away from home,” says director of activities Esther Richards, who brings on the fun—setting up guests with crabbing expeditions, biking trips, kayaking journeys, arts and crafts projects, and more. Richards, who is originally from Jamaica, has been living in this area for 16 years and says there’s a lot to love about this little resort and this little corner of Maine. “I’ve been to quite a few other places, but it’s so beautiful here. The people are warm and friendly. It’s serene, it’s clean, it’s safe,” she says.
Those qualities are also what won over Tim Harrington, a travel entrepreneur who is originally from Boston and spent childhood summers in Cape Cod. “I am madly in love with Maine,” he says. “It’s like going back in time. The towns have a ‘50s vibe, with people out in farmer’s markets on Saturday mornings and riding around on their bikes.” Harrington has gone all in on Southern Maine with countless projects like Atlantic Hospitality, which includes the new Dunes on the Waterfront—a delightfully redone collection of vintage cottages in the artsy town of Ogunquit. “It’s a barefoot luxury, sand-in-your-toes kind of place,” says Harrington. He is also a partner in the Kennebunk Resort Collection, which has 10 stylish hotels in its portfolio, including Hidden Pond Resort & Tree Spa.
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And you can’t come to these parts without talking about the food. The menus here feature a lot of lobster, of course, but restaurateurs like Matt Dyer, co-owner of Kennebunk’s Wandby Landing—set in an 1800s farmhouse—are taking the culinary scene to the next level. Case in point: the restaurant’s tuna carpaccio, made with just-off-the docks bluefin tuna, pickled ramps, green garlic vinaigrette, kalamata olives, black garlic aioli, and focaccia. “There are a lot of chefs and restaurateurs who really get it and want to show off all the things that Maine can do with the best ingredients that are caught or picked that day and brought right to the table,” he says. “And even though it’s a business, we all want to make sure that people are well taken care of.”
Who’s hungry for the freshest seafood and a stay at an adorable waterfront hotel? Join us on our last jaunt of the summer to experience the way life should be.
Where to stay
What’s your idea of the perfect seaside escape? A family-friendly inn on the waterfront? A cottage colony by the sea? A funky redone motel? You’ll find all that—and more—in Kennebunkport, York, and Ogunquit.
For families: Nonantum Resort in Kennebunkport
Families have been coming back generation after generation to this 1883 resort, which has been updated without losing its historic vibe. “It’s like the hotel in Dirty Dancing—it’s got an old-timey feel and is so quaint and sweet,” says Poore. Think: kids running around on the lawn, a singer playing acoustic guitar by the firepit at sundown, crab-catching sessions off the dock. And couples enjoy it here, too—especially in a room with a fireplace and an oversized tub.
For food lovers: Hidden Pond Resort & Tree Spa in Kennebunkport
You’ll feel like you’re in an enchanted forest at this resort with cottages, bungalows, and a treetop spa set on 60 wooded acres. The restaurant, Earth at Hidden Pond, sources ingredients for its farm-to-fork dishes and craft cocktails from the hotel’s own organic gardens and local producers.
For a postcard panorama: The Viewpoint Hotel in York
This small hotel with jaw-dropping views of Nubble Lighthouse made major headlines when Lady Gaga’s sister got married here this summer. We’re betting Gaga stayed in the new Shoreside Rooms, built into the hillside with floor-to-ceiling windows (though Lipton wouldn’t confirm). Another highlight: A Little Auk, the hotel’s open-air restaurant with a bar set in a vintage Airstream. And coming soon, a glamorous new spa with three treatment rooms plus a hot tub, sauna, and cold plunge.
For seafaring souls: The Nevada Hotel in York Beach
Are you getting nautical vibes from this Long Sands Beach property? Fun fact: The design was inspired by the USS Nevada, where its original owner served during World War II. After a major overhaul, it’s now a retro-cool hotel with sleek rooms overlooking the ocean and a tiki-themed bar and restaurant called Lulu’s (more on that in a few).
For cottage lovers: Dunes on the Waterfront in Ogunquit
Welcome to the cottage colony of your dreams. The 21 bungalows (with names like “Salt” and “Driftwood”) are straight out of a design magazine, with white shiplap walls, green-and-white striped throw pillows, antique furniture, and art sourced from local galleries. You’ll also be close to the water—with the tidal inlet and the ocean below—but the accommodations are so cute you might never leave.
Where to eat and drink
“Maine for sure is about lobsters. So many people who come here say they want to have lobster for breakfast, lunch, and dinner,” says Harrington. And it’s possible—but don’t miss some of the other culinary highlights.
Best breakfasts
Mornings in Paris in Kennebunkport and Ogunquit - This European-style cafe has two locations, serving croissants, crepes, macarons, quiche, and more. “They have great pastries, and it’s got a bit of a Parisian flair,” says Poore.
Rick's Blue Jay Café in York - Don’t miss the homemade hash, and if you like the decor, much of the artwork (including the hand-carved wooden whales) is for sale.
The Greenery Cafe in Ogunquit - Everything is made from scratch at this charming breakfast and brunch spot with a killer crab cake Benedict and blueberry French toast.
Lunchtime
Bev’s Cafe & Market in Kennebunk - San Francisco’s celebrated Zuni Cafe lost its longtime chef (Nate Norris) and pastry chef (Annie Callan). But the West Coast’s loss is Maine’s gain. “Now they’re here, serving breakfast and lunch with some of the best sandwiches and pastries around,” says Dyer. “The cookies are a treat—they’ll turn your day around. And anytime Nate does a burger, I’m a sucker for it.”
Brix + Brine in Ogunquit - Set in a back alley, this buzzy spot doesn’t look like much. “But it’s beyond good,” says Harrington. Get the lobster roll with tarragon aioli, and if you want to try a variety of oysters from the area, Lipton says this is “the place to go.”
Barnacle Billy’s in Ogunquit - “My wife and I love to go to Ogunquit and sit at Barnacle Billy’s on the deck, watch the boats go by, and have steamers and rum punch,” says Lipton.
Seafood shacks
Clam Shack in Kennebunk - Right on the bridge that connects Kennebunk and Kennebunkport is this iconic restaurant with a retro vibe. “The Clam Shack wins all kinds of awards for its lobster rolls,” says Poore.
Langsford Road Lobster and Fish House in Cape Porpoise - “At this fish market with a few tables out on the back, you can get lobsters and sit out on Cape Porpoise Harbor. If the owner Captain John is there, he’ll slice up some scallops and turn it into sushi,” says Harrington. And be sure to take a stroll along Langford Road: “It feels like something you’d see in Midcoast Maine.”
Lobster Pound Restaurant in Ogunquit - “This third-generation family-owned business has not changed: It’s still got that perfect retro original vibe,” says Harrington. There’s lots of surf—and turf, too—but the best way to get your lobster is by the pound, boiled and served with two sides and plenty of hot butter.
Global flavors
The Lost Fire Grill & Bar in Kennebunkport - “This is an amazing Argentinian steakhouse, and as someone who lived part of my life in Uruguay and Argentina, I can tell you that they’re the real deal,” says Harrington.
Lulu's in York - Maine meets the tropics at this tiki-themed bar and restaurant set on the grounds of the Nevada Hotel. The fan favorite dish: al pastor tacos with juicy pineapple-braised meat. The restaurant also makes its own version of Spam for the musubi on a rice cake wrapped in nori. Plus juices are hand-pressed every day for drinks like the “your tai,” Lulu’s take on a mai tai with a house rum blend, pineapple, lemon, lime, and more.
Nikanos in Ogunquit - With its lamb meatballs and grilled octopus, this Greek restaurant is the next best thing to a trip to Athens.
Casual bites
Pilot House Restaurant in Kennebunk - The slogan at this newly rebuilt waterfront restaurant is “respect the locals.” And thanks to its down-home menu (bacon-wrapped scallops, haddock Reuben) and eye-popping river views, locals love and respect it back. “I love the new space, and it’s always a vibe,” says Richards.
Crotux Kitchen - Garden Street Bowl in Kennebunk - This gastropub combines a bowling alley, game room, and comfort-food bites from around the globe (poutine, shrimp pad Thai).
Stones Throw Restaurant in York - At this always-packed spot right across from the ocean, it’s all about elevated beach eats (the mussels in Thai coconut sauce is the top seller). “We also have the best fish and chips that I know of in Southern Maine—and I will stick by that,” says Lipton. Take a walk on the beach while you wait for your table.
Date night
Wandby Landing in Kennebunk - Before opening this restaurant in a pretty marshside setting, Dyer, his wife Mariah, and chef Eric Murdough were part of the Earth at Hidden Pond team. The menu is rustic Italian by way of coastal Maine, with handmade pastas and fresh-from-the-sea dishes like peekytoe crab toast with Calabrian chili-lemon aioli. And don’t sleep on the wood-fired pizzas: “There’s a lot of love going into the dough—it’s a 48-hour fermentation process using a five-year-old sourdough starter,” says Dyer.
Walkers Maine in Cape Neddick - This restaurant specializing in wood-fired cooking is from another pair of Earth at Hidden Pond alums: chef Justin Walker and his sommelier wife, Danielle Johnson. “Justin’s one of those guys who could cook a fine-dining meal on a remote beach with just a propane tank and a pile of wood,” says Dyer. “The menu changes regularly, but whatever he’s cooking is going to be good. And Danielle is the eternal hostess. She always makes you feel welcome.”
Northern Union in Ogunquit - Lipton is a fan of this restaurant and bar in a 1927 shingled home in Ogunquit. “It’s a beautiful setting with fire pits outside,” he says. “It used to be just a wine bar with all small plates, but now it has larger dishes and elevated dining.” Don’t miss the grilled scallops with kimchi mayo and crispy duck skin togarashi slaw.
Sweets
Rococo Ice Cream in Kennebunk - When Marvin is in the mood for ice cream, this is her go-to. Opened by a 10th-generation Mainer, it serves wild flavor combos like goat cheese blackberry chambord, Maine whoopie pie, and horchata rum cake.
Dunne’s Ice Cream in York - “They have a massive selection of ice cream,” says Lipton. “But I’m boring—I love the Moose Tracks. It’s a chocolate, coffee, caramel Heath bar crunchy kind of thing.”
Drinks
The Spirit Restaurant in Kennebunk - Grab cocktails and snacks (raw bar, sushi rolls) on a 125-foot schooner owned by the same team behind the Pilot House. “You can have a drink on top of the boat about two stories up, looking out at the river—that’ll cure any bad day,” says Dyer.
Tides Beach Club in Kennebunkport - “People rave about this spot right on Goose Rocks Beach—it’s such a blast,” says Harrington. “The watermelon martinis are an absolute must.”
The Front Porch Piano Bar in Ogunquit - “Ogunquit is buzzy at night, and the Front Porch is always packed—especially the upstairs piano bar,” says Harrington. “Scotty, the piano player, is fantastic, and he’s there every afternoon into the evening.”
What to do
Outdoors
Obviously, the beaches along this coast are spectacular, from Kennebunkport’s Goose Rocks (three miles of powdery shoreline) to Long Sands in York (a flat stretch with gentle waves that make it popular with surfers) to Ogunquit Beach (a sandy peninsula between the Atlantic and the Ogunquit River). Here are some other ways to enjoy the great outdoors.
Aquaholics Surf Shop in Kennebunkport - Set in an old church, this local outfitter offers lessons and all the gear you need to surf, SUP, skim, skate, and sunbathe. Plus, it’s got a heart: “They created an unbelievable program that happens three times a summer called Special Surfers, which helps people with special needs get up on a surfboard,” says Poore.
Mount Agamenticus in York - “This is a fantastic hiking spot and a hidden gem,” says Harrington. “The views are incredible—you can see the ocean and all the way north to Portland and south to New Hampshire.” And a tip from Marvin: “You can drive or hike up, and sometimes there’s sunrise yoga at the top of the mountain.”
Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge in Kennebunkport - This 9,125-acre refuge stretches for 50 miles along the coast and has lovely pathways meandering through salt marshes and estuaries. “It’s a beautiful place to go for a hike,” says Richards.
Wiggly Bridge in York Harbor - Connecting a river and a pond is the smallest suspension bridge in the world, and it does just what the name says—it wiggles. Cross it to reach an easy and pretty 1.4-mile walking trail.
Cape Neddick Nubble Lighthouse in York - Set on a tiny island, this 1879 lighthouse isn’t open to the public—but it’s one of the most photographed spots in Maine. Tripadvisor reviewers recommend wearing good shoes if you plan to walk across the rocks at low tide for a better shot.
Marginal Way in Ogunquit - This iconic walkway weaves along a cliff between the beach and Perkins Cove. “You get to see amazing views of the ocean, and it’s also got great people-watching,” says Richards.
Arts and culture
Whatever you’re passionate about—history, theater, art, trains, classic cars—this area delivers.
Seashore Trolley Museum in Kennebunkport - Travelers used to take the railroad and trolleys to get to these parts, so it makes sense that you’d find this museum dedicated to mass transit. “I think the Seashore Trolley Museum is fun for all ages,” says Marvin. “They have a new model railroad building that is super interesting.” Marvin also recommends checking out the pedal-powered rail bike at the museum “if you want to get active.”
Maine Classic Car Museum in Arundel - “I always bring guests to the Maine Classic Car Museum,” says Marvin. “Totally unassuming outside; fascinating inside.”
Ogunquit Playhouse in Ogunquit - Founded almost 100 years ago, this theater company goes beyond the standard summer-stock variety. “It features Broadway-caliber performances,” says Marvin. This summer, actress Kathleen Turner starred in A Little Night Music; through September 21, you can check out Little Shop of Horrors with famed drag queen Latrice Royale playing Audrey II.
Ogunquit Museum of American Art in Ogunquit - “Ogunquit has a great art scene, especially this contemporary art museum,” says Harrington. The setting is as spectacular as the art inside: Don’t miss the sculpture garden overlooking the Atlantic.
Corey Daniels Gallery in Wells - “This antique store has morphed into a contemporary art gallery with really interesting pieces. The owner’s eye is incredible,” says Harrington. “It’s an absolute must stop.”
Shopping
Along this coastline, you’ll find locally owned shops with loads of personality. Here are a few of our favorites.
Lobstore in Kennebunkport - Who doesn’t love a lobster-print tote bag? “It sounds a little kitschy—in some ways, it is,” says Harrington. “But people line up to get in there.”
Daytrip Society in Kennebunkport - Looking for a gift? This is your place, with every Maine-appropriate theme you can think of—whale watching, buoys, hydrangeas, and more. “This shop is super curated with really interesting things that you see nowhere else,” says Harrington. Got kids? Check out Daytrip Jr., next door.
The Shop by Wheat in York Beach - Actor Huw Collins (Pretty Little Liars) is part of the duo behind this coastal-chic lifestyle shop, and though it’s got locations around the country, this York outpost feels one-of-a-kind with the perfect sweaters for cool Maine nights, beachy candles and fragrances, and more.
Carboni Antiques in Wells - “North of Ogunquit, there’s incredible antiquing. We use lots of vintage furniture in the designs of our hotels, and it’s mostly locally sourced,” says Harrington. This is one of his favorites, with treasure-packed cottages packed, from antique lighting to 19th-century gold frames.
Perkins Cove Pottery Shop in Ogunquit - Everything is handmade at this shop featuring stoneware pottery and other gifts (jewelry, books) in picturesque Perkins Cove. One need-to-have: a French butter keeper made by local artist (and former owner) Chris Davis. Trust us on this one.