Eat your way around Macao

It may sound cliché, but Macao is a melting pot (literally). Before my first visit, I knew it had been a colony, but once I got here, I was shocked to learn that it was only returned to China in 1999—after 400 years of Portuguese rule. This mix of cultures is most apparent in Macao’s food. Beyond Portuguese and Chinese dishes, you’ll also find many flavors from nearby Hong Kong and other Asian countries. For centuries, Macao was a main port in the spice trade, so there are African and European influences as well.

Strolling down Macao’s bustling streets, I saw this mash-up first-hand. Vendors sold almond cookies, salt cod croquettes, and bak kwa (dried beef or pork jerky). Local watering holes served cold beer alongside pork chop buns and minchi (ground meat and diced potatoes, topped with a fried egg). It can be overwhelming—for the senses and for reservations—so I’ve done the taste testing and planning for you. Here are my favorite restaurants in Macao.

This Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant in the Altira hotel is worth the splurge. Beyond its panoramic waterfront views, the dim sum spread is elaborate (come hungry). Each plate is a feast for the eyes as much as it is for the stomach. I almost felt like it was too beautiful to eat. The food is a work of art, presented in whimsical animal shapes or garnished with gold leaf.

What to order: The most show-stopping dim sum is a dramatic black swan, a roasted goose-filled dumpling with a crunchy deep-fried taro body and a curved edible bamboo neck. Other favorites include stir-fried sole fillet and asparagus in XO sauce, and Iberico char siu served tableside.

Tip: If you can’t get a reservation at Ying, check out The Eight, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in the Grand Lisboa hotel. It’s another excellent choice for fine-dining dim sum.

Versions of hot pot—or huǒguō, meaning "fire pot" in Chinese—have been popular in many Asian countries for ages. Though the specific origins of this communal dish are still debated, (was it invented by traveling Mongol warriors or did it come from China’s Sichuan Province?) hot pot is generally credited to China. Whichever province hot pot came from, it’s a crowd pleaser and a memorable meal when visiting Macao.

What to order: Scan the massive a la carte hot pot menu and pick a soup. My go-to is coriander with century eggs—I know it sounds strange, but trust me. Then customize it with your choice of vegetables (turnip or winter melon?), meat (wagyu or beef tendon?), or seafood (zebra mantis shrimp or handmade fish balls?). You can even pick the noodles, too; I love the purple sweet potato vermicelli. Or, simplify things with one of the pre-set menus.

Tip: Make a night of it on Cotai Strip (Macao's version of the Las Vegas strip). There are dozens of top-tier hotels, each trying to outdo the next. The glitzy Parisian (where Lotus Palace is) has a half-scale Eiffel Tower while The Londoner features replicas of Big Ben and 10 Downing Street. MGM Cotai is an architectural marvel, and the library in The Karl Lagerfeld features 4,000 books hand-selected by the late designer himself. So, dinner at one of these luxe hotels isn’t just a meal—it’s a world-class experience.

This charming yellow home in the historic St. Lazarus Quarter looks like you teleported to Porto or Lisbon. Housed within one of three colonial buildings, Albergue 1601 serves traditional Portuguese food in several small dining rooms. But my favorite table is beneath the camphor trees in the serene courtyard.

What to order: You must try caldo verde (a classic Portuguese soup with potatoes, kale, and sausage), arroz de mariscos (seafood rice stew), bacalhau à brás (salt cod with scrambled eggs), and ameijoa a bulhão pato (steamed clams in white wine sauce).

Opened by the late Senhora Aida de Jesus, this humble, wallet-friendly spot is known for its Macanese homestyle cooking. Located off the beaten track, away from touristy areas, it focuses on no-frills comfort food that’s the real deal.

What to order: This is one of the best places to try two of Macao’s national dishes—minchi and African chicken (a spicy Macanese take on chicken curry, with an addictive peanut sauce of tomatoes, coconut, chiles, and dried African spices).

Head to bustling Rua do Cunha for a sampler platter of Macao’s street food. You’ll find an incredible mix of Macanese, Portuguese, and regional Chinese flavors. Get your fill of savory snacks, but save room for dessert at this family-run ice cream shop in Old Taipa Village. Opened in 1938, it’s now been passed down to the third generation and has received a nod from Michelin for its stellar scoops.

What to order: They somehow figured out a way to transform durian, an infamously stinky fruit, into a creamy, sweet frozen treat. If that’s not your thing, I recommend the agar jelly and serradura ice cream, too.

Tip: Macao is a great place to pick up some edible souvenirs like tea and cookies. Be sure to leave some extra space in your suitcase.

When Andrew Stow, an Englishman living in Macao, got a taste of pastéis de nata (Portuguese egg tarts) on a visit to Lisbon, he decided to bring these treats back to his adopted home. He opened the original location of his eponymous bakery in Coloane Village in 1989, and it’s been a go-to ever since. There’s almost always a queue, but it’s worth the wait.

What to order: These tarts are too good to eat only one, especially when they’re still warm from the oven. So do as the locals do and buy a box then sprinkle them with a generous dusting of cinnamon.