How to eat your way around Athens

Welcome to Athens, a city where ancient history and modern life blend seamlessly—and nowhere is this fusion more deliciously evident than in its food scene. I’ve spent my life eating my way through this sprawling metropolis. I grew up in the leafy northern suburb of Kifissia, then tied the knot in the chic seaside neighborhood of Glyfada. And though I live full-time in Dubai now, each summer, I visit my parents who still live here.

What makes Athens special isn’t just its incredible landmarks but the rich, diverse flavors you find at every corner. Whether you’re sampling local desserts at a bakery that’s been operating in the same place with the same menu since 1892 (I’m looking at you, Varsos Kifissia) or grabbing a quick bite at a trendy seaside spot (hello, Island Club), each dish tells a story of tradition, innovation, and the Greek love for good food.

Another surprise for many visitors: There is much more to Athenian cuisine than the typical Greek salad or gyro on the go. Here are my top picks for places you must visit, ranging from luxurious dining experiences to hidden gems cherished by locals to local tavernas that serve free watermelon slices at the end of every meal. Bon appétit, or as we say in Greece, καλή όρεξη.

Spondi is the epitome of fine dining in Athens, focusing on raw materials from eco-friendly local producers. This two-Michelin-starred restaurant offers an exquisite blend of Greek flavors and French techniques, like turbot with carrot, pink grapefruit, verbena, and brown butter. The atmosphere is elegant, with white tablecloths in a garden setting; you would never guess that the bustling city center is just beyond the restaurant’s quiet walls.

What to order: The lobster with sea urchin and Greek herbs is a must-try, showcasing the best of local seafood with a sophisticated twist.

With tables overlooking the Aegean sea in the Piraeus port area, Varoulko Seaside combines a relaxing dining experience with waterfront views. Michelin-starred chef Lefteris Lazarou—a pioneer of modern Greek cuisine—overlooks each dish before it goes out. He is known for his seafood: from vinegar-marinated octopus to grilled shrimp with black quinoa salad, mango, and truffle mayo.

What to order: The octopus with fava bean puree is a dish that perfectly captures the essence of Greek coastal cuisine, balancing tender seafood with the earthy flavors of the puree.

I may be biased because I had my wedding rehearsal dinner at Dionysos Zonar’s in Makriyanni, but this restaurant with a dramatic view of the Acropolis perched on a hill nearby has always been a big hit with locals and tourists. The airy eatery serves twists on classic Greek dishes, (think, lemony rice topped with grilled local fish), as well as international dishes like the creamiest mushroom risotto you’ll ever try. Linger over strong coffee and dessert, particularly if you’re lucky enough to visit during a full moon. It’s breathtaking food with a breathtaking view.

What to order: Greek salad with a molecular twist.

Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani is a traditional deli-turned-restaurant hidden in the Psiri neighborhood in the heart of Athens. It specializes in cured meats and cheeses from across Greece, inspired by traditional Byzantium flavors. The casual, bustling atmosphere makes it a favorite among locals. After sampling the menu, wander the energetic streets of Psiri, where laughter regularly spills onto cobblestone streets from buzzing bars and cafes nearby.

What to order: The pastirma pie is a standout, featuring rich, spiced cured beef enveloped in flaky pastry.

Diporto is a time capsule of old Athens. Hidden beneath the bustling Central Market, this quirky taverna has no sign, no menu, and no frills. Eating here feels like being let in on a well-kept secret, with communal tables and rustic charm. If you’re lucky, the chickpea stew will be on the menu—it’s simple but hearty, embodying the essence of Greek home cooking.

What to order: Come here with an open mind (and a big appetite). Whatever they’re cooking that day is what you get.

For a taste of Athens’ best street food, Kostas is the place to go. This tiny shop near Syntagma Square has been serving souvlaki since 1950, and it remains true to its roots, offering simple food that’s perfect for a quick bite. There’s only one thing you want to order here: the souvlaki, wrapped in soft pita with juicy meat, fresh tomatoes, onions, and a drizzle of tzatziki—it’s an Athens classic. Heads up: The line can be long, but it’s worth the wait.

What to order: One word—souvlaki.