A maze of contradictions, Guangzhou's upmarket malls and slums sit side by side. Taxis prove the least intimidating way to negotiate this sprawling city and its congested traffic. Tree-lined Shaiman Island, popular with prospective adoptive parents from overseas, is ideal for shopping, strolling or a meal. The vast Qingping street market is not for the faint-hearted: cats, dogs and anteaters are among creatures slaughtered on the spot. The Flowery Pagoda provides more peaceful contemplation.